The 5 Pairs of Shoes Every Man Needs
You do not need a closet full of shoes. These five pairs cover the office, weddings, weekends and travel. Learn what to look for in each and how to care for them.
Shoes change an outfit more than almost any other item. The same jeans and shirt look relaxed with sneakers and smart with loafers. You do not need dozens of pairs. Five well-chosen, well-kept pairs will cover nearly every situation, from a job interview to a beach holiday.
1. Dark brown or black oxford shoes
Oxfords have closed lacing, which gives them a sleek, formal look. They are the shoe to wear with suits, at weddings, interviews and formal events.
What to look for:
- Plain toe or cap toe for the most versatility.
- Smooth leather in black (most formal) or dark brown (slightly more versatile).
- Leather soles look elegant; rubber soles are more practical in rain.
If you only buy one formal pair, dark brown works with navy, gray and most pants, while black is the safest for very formal events.
2. Loafers
Loafers are slip-on shoes that sit between smart and casual. They look great with chinos, tailored pants and and even with shorts on a summer weekend.
Styles to know:
- Penny loafers — a strap across the top; classic and easy.
- Tassel loafers — slightly dressier.
- Suede loafers — softer and more relaxed; perfect for summer evenings.
Wear them with no-show socks in warm weather, or with fine socks in winter.
3. Clean minimalist sneakers
A pair of plain leather or canvas sneakers in white, off-white or black is the backbone of a modern casual wardrobe. They work with jeans, chinos, shorts and even a casual suit.
What to look for: minimal logos, a slim sole, and leather that can be wiped clean. Keep them spotless — dirty white sneakers instantly make an outfit look careless.
4. Chelsea or desert boots
Boots add a rugged edge and are practical in cooler months.
- Chelsea boots have elastic sides and a sleek shape. In dark brown suede or black leather, they work with slim jeans and pants.
- Desert boots are soft, lace-up suede boots with a crepe or rubber sole. They are relaxed and comfortable.
Either style smartens up jeans immediately.
5. Boat shoes or leather sandals
For summer, vacations and warm states from Florida to California, a pair of leather boat shoes or simple leather sandals is essential. They work with linen pants, chino shorts and swim trunks at the beach house.
What to look for: a supportive sole, soft leather straps that will not rub, and good stitching.
Match your leathers: try to keep your belt close in color to your shoes — brown with brown, black with black. It is a small detail that makes outfits look intentional.
Making shoes last longer
- Use shoe trees (cedar is best) in leather shoes. They absorb moisture and keep the shape.
- Rotate pairs. Leather needs a day to dry out after wearing.
- Polish regularly with a cream polish that matches the color.
- Protect suede with a spray, and brush it with a suede brush after wear.
- Resole rather than replace. Good leather shoes with stitched soles can be repaired many times.
Buying tips
Shop in the afternoon, when feet are slightly larger. Wear the socks you will usually wear with the shoes. There should be about a thumb's width of space in front of your longest toe, and your heel should not slip much when you walk.
The takeaway
A formal pair, a loafer, a clean sneaker, a boot and a sandal — that is all most men need. Buy the best quality you can afford in each category, care for them properly, and they will serve you for years.
